How to Make a Soy Candle? A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Why choose soy wax?

Soy wax is a natural, plant-based material derived from soybeans. Compared to traditional paraffin wax (a petroleum derivative), it has many advantages: it burns slower and more evenly, produces less soot, is biodegradable, and eco-friendly. Soy candles are also safer for people sensitive to scents—especially when they are unscented, like those we create at Candle by Ann.

What do you need? — Detailed list of materials

Soy wax

Choose soy wax flakes (granules) designed for container candles or for molds. These are two different types:

• Container wax — softer, adheres to the jar's sides, ideal for glass and ceramic vessels
• Pillar wax — harder, maintains shape after removal from a silicone mold

For beginners, we recommend container wax—it's easier to work with and more forgiving of mistakes.

Wicks

The wick must be matched to the diameter of the container. A wick that is too thin will extinguish, while one that is too thick will produce soot and burn out quickly. General rule:

• Diameter up to 6 cm — ECO-4 or CD-12 wick
• Diameter 6–8 cm — ECO-6 or CD-16 wick
• Diameter over 8 cm — ECO-10 or CD-20 wick

Always perform a burn test before producing a larger batch of candles!

Containers and molds

• Glass jars — classic, easy to clean and reuse
• Ceramic mugs and bowls — elegant, perfect for gifts
• White silicone molds — allow for creating candles in any shape: flowers, hearts, geometric figures, animals. Wax easily slides out of them after hardening.

Thermometer

Use a digital thermometer with a metal probe (also known as a confectionery or wax thermometer). It allows precise temperature control in the range of 0–200°C. This is an absolutely crucial tool—without it, it's difficult to achieve consistent results.

Other tools

• Kitchen scale — accurate to 1 g
• Pot and stainless steel pitcher or container — for a double boiler
• Wooden sticks or pencils — for centering the wick
• Wick stickers or glue — for securing to the bottom of the container
• Scissors — for trimming the wick
• Baking paper — to protect the work surface

Step 1 — Calculating the amount of wax

Fill the container with water to the desired level and pour it into a measuring cup—you need as many grams of wax as milliliters of water (the density of soy wax is similar to water). Add approximately 10–15% extra, as the wax shrinks during cooling.

Example: 300 ml jar → you need approximately 330–345 g of wax.

Step 2 — Preparing the container and wick

Wash and thoroughly dry the container. Adhere the wick to the bottom using a sticker or a drop of hot glue. Thread the wick through two parallel sticks placed on the rim of the container to keep it upright. Ensure the wick is taut and straight—a loose wick may become crooked when pouring the wax.

Step 3 — Melting the wax in a double boiler

Fill a pot with water to about 1/3 of its height and bring to a boil. Place a stainless steel pitcher or container with the measured wax in it. Stir gently with a wooden spoon or spatula. Monitor the temperature with a thermometer:

• Soy wax melting temperature: 50–55°C
• Working temperature (after melting): 70–75°C

Never heat wax directly over a flame—this risks scorching and fire!

Step 4 — Cooling to pouring temperature

Remove the container from the double boiler and set aside to cool. Stir every few minutes. Wait until the wax reaches a temperature of 55–60°C before pouring into the container or mold. This is a crucial moment:

• Too hot wax (>65°C) — can cause surface cracking and "sinkholes" (holes after cooling)
• Too cold wax (<50°C) — starts to harden and may not fill the container evenly

Step 5 — Pouring the wax

Pour the wax slowly, in a thin stream, holding the pitcher close to the container's surface to avoid air bubbles. Leave approximately 1–1.5 cm of empty space from the top of the container. If using a silicone mold, fill it completely and place it on a level surface.

If you want to add decorations (dried flowers, rose petals, gold dust), place them gently on the surface of the wax when it starts to slightly solidify (approx. 45°C).

Step 6 — Cooling

Leave the candle at room temperature (18–22°C) for a minimum of 24 hours. Avoid drafts and sudden temperature changes. Do not put it in the refrigerator—too rapid cooling causes cracking and white spots on the surface (known as frosting).

After hardening, you may notice a small indentation around the wick—this is normal. Fill it with a small amount of melted wax (a "top coat") and wait another 12 hours.

Step 7 — Finishing and trimming the wick

After complete hardening, trim the wick to a height of 0.5–1 cm above the wax surface. A wick that is too long will produce soot and large flames. If you used a silicone mold, gently remove the candle—soy wax is flexible and releases easily.

Step 8 — Burn test (memory burn)

The first burn is the most important for the life of the candle. Burn it until the entire surface of the wax melts—from edge to edge. This will prevent tunneling (a hole burning down the center). The duration of the first burn depends on the diameter:

• Diameter 6 cm — approx. 1.5–2 hours
• Diameter 8 cm — approx. 2–3 hours
• Diameter 10 cm — approx. 3–4 hours

Common problems and how to solve them

• White spots on the surface (frosting) — a natural effect of soy wax, harmless. Can be minimized by pouring at a lower temperature and slower cooling.
• Cracks on the surface — wax was too hot when pouring or cooled too quickly.
• Holes and indentations (sinkholes) — refill with melted wax and wait.
• Candle extinguishes — wick is too thin or too short. Change to a thicker one.
• Candle produces soot — wick is too thick or too long. Trim to 0.5 cm.
• Tunneling — skipping the memory burn on the first burn. Always burn until the entire surface melts.

Advanced tips

• Test different types of wicks — keep notes on each test (pouring temperature, wax type, diameter, burn time)
• Silicone molds — before pouring wax, lightly spray them with oil for easier candle removal
• Ambient temperature — in a cold room, wax cools faster and may crack. Ideal working temperature is 20–22°C.
• Test batch — always start with a small batch (2–3 candles) before larger production

Summary

Creating soy candles is a craft that combines precision with creativity. Each candle is unique—and that's what makes it special. Over time, you will develop your own methods and favorite combinations. However, if you prefer ready-made, handmade soy candles without the extra effort—visit our Candle by Ann store and find something special for yourself or your loved ones. 🕯️